December, 2021

the kitchen

Here we are again, facing a holiday with more stress than we all hoped for. The Simone team sends our best out to our guests and hope that you are continuing to take good care of yourself and your community. It truly “takes a village!”

We have had the good fortune of seeing some of you after almost a two-year break since you have visited New York City, bringing some good cheer and joy to our little house. Thank you for sharing your time with us, a pleasure to see you and give you a squeeze!

We have had some new and delicious wines presented to us these past few months. One of the most ethereal and complex wine, layered with elegant, subtle aroma, texture, and taste is the Mixtura Blanca from Gutier Seijo Otero, Albarino and Treixadura. This is one of those wines that I want everyone to taste and so I tend to have a heavy hand pouring tastes for anyone ordering tuna tartare with caviar or scallop ceviche with blood oranges and bits of jalapeno, also red snapper crudo with piquillos. Even Chip’s fluffy quenelles of flounder with sauce Americain. Love it.

And if you are flexing your tastebuds in Beaujolais, as you should since there are tremendous joys to be found there, please do try Prunelle de Navacelle’s recent release, lively and fresh, but sophisticated. Again, too drinkable! Almost always a first choice with some of our terrines, but I also paired recently with Chicken Paprikash with a Vetruschka of thigh, savoy cabbage and foie gras plus alongside Black Sea Bass, beurre rouge, parsnip, jerusalem artichoke, hen of the woods. These wines give me hope for a better 2022 for all of us.

Christmas Eve will have us enjoying Chestnut Ravioli with crispy sweetbreads (Northern Rhone Blanc, please), Nage of Fish with either oysters or quenelles, or both…Mixtura Blanca, Champagne, Vintage Muscadet. And sweets! I am having visions of Chip’s Polonaise, light as air genoise with merengue and candied fruits (Banyuls Blanc, Muscat Beaumes de Venise, Coteaux du Layon), and the time is now for his “Night in Tunisia”, a tart of crushed almonds, dates, ras el hanout, orange zest… Pineau Charentes Blanc. And of course, as per my usual habits, still enjoying Rose on my Sunday with stove popped old school style popcorn. Eat, drink and be Merry, yes!

Our featured photo from our favorite Chef shows the afterglow of a special Chef’s luncheon he was invited to attend in early December. Naturally they ended up on the outside table with cigars, Armagnac, Scotch and probably a few tall tales. It was a wonderful gathering after having to miss last year and Chip so enjoyed the chance, rare that it is, to sit with so many professionals he admires and raise a glass.

Let us keep crossing all fingers and toes that the New Year brings a brighter note on the health front for all. A slow recovery for so many around the world, not to mention the health of our Mother Nature. If we strive to take good care of her, she will do the same for us. And as for the Simone, well, still holding on, doing our best to do our best for you, 17 months and counting.

Love and appreciation,

Tina, Chip, and the ever willing and able team at the Simone

outside table at The Simone